Isn’t it funny how acne tends to show up at the most inopportune moments? Have a fancy dinner? A breakout is your plus one. Heading out for a date? A pimple as your third wheel. Acne is fairly common among people of all ages, and in all honesty, really nothing to be ashamed of. What matters most is following a routine (both in terms of skincare and lifestyle) that focuses on keeping your skin healthy.
There are, however, times when you don’t want your acne to steal the spotlight. And for moments like that, it’s absolutely alright to cover your acne with makeup. The only thing to keep in mind? Acne-prone skin or just breakouts are tricky to deal with—if you don’t follow the right technique with the right kind of skincare infused makeup products, you’ll end up aggravating it further. We spoke to celebrity makeup artist, Riddhima Sharma, and MD Skin & Wellness Expert and founder of ISYA Aesthetics, Dr Kiran Sethi, to shed light on the skin-friendly ways to cover acne with makeup.
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Step #1 - Choose your ingredients wisely
Always check the ingredient list on the makeup products you plan to use on your face, especially if you have over-active acne. “Look for non-comedogenic products on the label. This means that they don’t clog the pores—certain kinds of oils like coconut, avocado and mineral oil, paraffin wax, cocoa butter, lanolin, and ingredients like isopropyl myristate, do clog the pores,” says Dr Sethi.
Opt for anti-inflammatory ingredients in the products you choose. These will help soothe, calm, and treat the active breakouts during wear time.
Step #2 - Prep correctly
Make sure that your fingers, makeup brushes, and other application tools are always cleaned before you touch your face. Inflammation is caused by trapped bacteria in the pores, and therefore using contaminated brushes or fingers will only make it worse. “Start by prepping your skin with an oil-free moisturiser,” states Sharma. Contrary to what you may have heard, drying out your acne-prone skin is not at all a good idea, as this will only cause an overproduction of oil leading to even more breakouts.
Step #3 - Foundation first
“Go over your skin with a medium coverage foundation that is buildable,” recommends Sharma. It’s better to apply foundation before concealer because if you go with concealer first, the chances of wiping off some of the product are pretty high when the foundation is added. Remember, when using a foundation for acne-prone skin, begin with a small amount and then build your coverage up slowly. Use a soft touch classic foundation brush to blend the product in.
Tira recommends: M.A.C Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation
Step #4 - Cover acne using a concealer
“Spot correct the acne with a small brush and little amounts of concealer, only on the affected areas,” adds Sharma. She recommends dabbing lightly when applying the concealer and even suggests using your fingers to gently blend it in. Remember to blend it outwards so that it merges in with your skin.
Tira recommends: Maybelline New York Fit Me Concealer, Too Faced Born This Way Super Coverage Concealer
Step #4 - Powder up
Finish off by lightly powdering your face with a translucent powder to set the foundation and the concealer in place. “Remember not to layer too much, as it can get crusty on acne-affected areas. Keep your base light,” says Sharma. She also suggests avoiding using too much blush on acne-affected areas, as it may highlight the redness of the acne.
Step #5 - Remove right
Going for heavy coverage? Dr Sethi recommends using micellar water to clean off the first layer, then using a salicylic, succinic, or mandelic acid based cleanser when removing your makeup. These cleansers go into your pores, deep cleanse them and help reduce obstructions. You can even use clarifying pads or a clarifying face mask to unclog your pores.
In conclusion, the right formulations and application techniques can not only conceal active acne but also avoid aggravating it after a long day of wear. And, ensure you follow the golden rule – do not go to bed with makeup on. Your skin, and acne, will thank you for letting it breathe while you snooze.
