Niacinamide, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid—these three active ingredients always come to mind when you think of effective treatments for acne. But did you know there is another underdog that doesn’t quite get the recognition it truly deserves? Meet azelaic acid — loved by experts and not appreciated enough by everyone else.
But what makes this ingredient the perfect go-to treatment for inflamed skin? We dive into the ingredient that is azelaic acid and break down what exactly it is, the type of skin care products you can find it in, and how, if used right, it can be quite the miracle worker it claims to be.
What exactly is azelaic acid?
Simply put, azelaic acid is an exfoliant. The origin of the acid is quite simple – it is a natural derivative of barley, grains, wheat, and cereal. Technically speaking, it is part of the dicarboxylic family of acids that are known to have four key properties – antioxidant, keratolytic, comedolytic, and antibacterial – all of which target and treat inflamed skin and breakouts.
Comedolytic means that the acid prevents the formation of comedones, aka clogged pores. Clogged pores often result in blackheads, whiteheads, and acne, which azelaic acid looks to target and treat. When applied, it dives straight into your pores and exfoliates them. The two-in-one action unclogs the pores while preventing them from getting clogged the next time around. Azelaic acid is also known to be a great keratolytic—an agent that helps break down excess keratin. It helps with inflamed lesions like acne and warts with its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Is azelaic acid the acne saviour?
In one word? Yes. One of the biggest azelaic acid benefits is that it’s an effective solution for those with acne. It contains antibacterial properties that target and kill acne-causing bacteria. Just like other AHAs and BHAs, it can loosen and exfoliate skin cells so that they don’t clog the pores in the future. The antioxidant properties present in this acid aid in brightening any sort of dullness or post-inflammatory redness, resulting in a more evened-out skin tone. Since it inhibits tyrosinase, it prevents hyperpigmentation from forming once your acne has healed. There’s enough and more proof that azelaic acid is the acne saviour, after all!
Fun fact: Before all gluten-sensitive people shun this amazing ingredient, it’s important to note that although azelaic acid is wheat-derived, experts say that what is absorbed into the body is too insignificant an amount to trigger a reaction.
When & how to use azelaic acid for skin
You can find azelaic acid present as a key ingredient in serums and moisturisers. It can be used in the daytime, the nighttime, or both. Start by applying the skincare ingredient at night and then build it up for daytime use, too. If you have sensitive skin, experts recommend using it once every alternative day to avoid increased sensitivity. You can either use the ingredient by itself or combine it with other acne-fighting treatments for the best outcome. The use of an AHA such as lactic or glycolic acid, or a BHA like salicylic acid, just before applying azelaic acid can help clear the path for its better absorption. Follow up with a hydrating moisturiser to prevent any sort of dryness. And, of course, as a general rule of thumb: always top it up with SPF.
Collateral damage
Since azelaic acid is rather mild compared to its other siblings, it doesn’t really have any worrisome or major side effects (unless you’re allergic to the acid itself, of course). However, always do a patch test before trying something new to gauge whether you’re allergic to the ingredients present in the formulation. And, as with any active ingredient, azelaic acid can leave your skin with a slight tingle, but that’s nothing to worry about.
