Horror stories are no longer limited to ghosts and monsters under our beds. They’re also made from the times you’ve used a trending skincare product and woken up looking like an extra on The Walking Dead. And, more often than not, it’s likely that the trending product in question had retinol in it. It makes sense since retinol has taken over the world of skincare and blown up our phones with influencers and dermatologists extolling its virtues until we begin believing that it’s the next best invention since sliced bread.
But retinol, as you may have discovered, is not something as simple as a moisturiser or serum. The benefits of this super-ingredient are manifold and almost magical, but not without a ‘be careful what you wish for’ clause attached to it. Figuring out how to use it may not be rocket science, but it is advisable to consult a dermatologist before adding it to your routine.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative, and its main job is to increase turnover of skin cells. Vitamin A or retinol is found in oily fish, cheese and butter as well as in foods sourced from animals. Retinol is made chemically from a derivative of vitamin C through a chemical process like hydrolysis or acidification.
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What are the benefits of retinol?
Skin cell turnover occurs naturally all the time, but various factors such as environmental damage, stress and ageing slow down the process, leading to dull, pigmented skin. With retinol, say goodbye to dead skin cells and hello to fresh healthy skin. “It also creates collagen synthesis,” says dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi, Delhi-based integrative aesthetic specialist, dermatologist, and founder of Isyaderm. “Studies have shown increased amounts of collagen protein in the skin after long term usage of retinol. And it also helps reduce oil secretion,” she adds.
“Retinol is important because it's one of the only agents that's really proven to increase collagen,” says Dr Sethi. As we age, the collagen in our skin decreases. For those who want plump, glowing skin, getting collagen back into the skin is a huge challenge. While the jury is still out on collagen supplements, there are studies to show that retinol does add back a significant amount of collagen to the skin. It also helps to keep the skin soft and less thick.
Who should avoid retinol?
It’s clear why retinol is such a star product. But, because of the speed at which your new skin cells make an appearance using retinol, it also means that all that tender baby skin is exposed before its ready, leading to irritation and dryness, and maybe even skin peeling. It can also cause purging, so those who have acne or acne-prone skin may see a few more pimples for the first four to six weeks because the increased cell turnover also means that whatever is underneath the skin also comes out in full view.
If you’re starting to see fine lines, and you don’t want them, then it’s a good idea to start retinol. “Typically, I would say start around your 30s,” says Dr Sethi.
If you have very dry or sensitive skin, don’t try retinol and if you do, make sure its drying effects are countered with hyaluronic acid that brings back some hydration and nourishment to the skin. For dry skin, there are other deeply hydrating ingredients that you should consider. “Facial oils with facial massage can help boost collagen,” says Dr Sethi. “Also, rosehip oil has beta carotene which can convert to a little bit of natural retinol on the skin. Peptides have collagen boosting properties as does bakuchiol. Alpha hydroxy acids have some collagen boosting activity. And all of them will naturally create more suppleness and add elasticity to the skin.”
What’s the best way to use retinol?
“As a beginner, I would suggest using a retinol once or twice a week. Use a little bit on the full face mixing it with a moisturiser. Build up every few weeks to thrice a week, then four times, then five times a week etc. And then use always leaving one day a week off.” Introduce retinol into your routine only with the recommendation of your dermatologist.
As a rule of thumb, avoid using strong acids with retinol unless it's been prescribed by your doctor because that can cause irritation of the skin. Other than that, any skincare product that has the same pH as retinol, such as niacinamide, can be used along with it. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin have normal pH values of around 5.5, so those can be used with retinol too. Vitamin C, with a lower pH, should not be used with retinol.
Article Image : Instagram/@aliaabhatt
