Thanks to Oprah’s longtime hair stylist, Andre Walker, there exists a system named the Hair Chart that has untangled understanding of hair types into four patterns since the ‘90s: straight, wavy, curly and coiled hair. When it comes to the last three, i there is more variety to them than you think you know.
If curl conundrums hit close to home for you, knowing what you’re dealing with is the secret to bouncing back. We decode for you the different kinds of (non-straight) hair along with what each means in terms of care and maintenance.
Type 2: Wavy hair
Type 2A – Slight waves
Starting at the roots to the mid-face, Type 2A hair is fairly straight till it unfurls into loose, undefined waves from around the nose to the ends.
Type 2B – Soft waves
The curls of Type 2B have a more defined S-shape and flow down from the equator of the face. This type of hair can easily pass off as beach waves.
Type 2C – Defined waves
More defined than 2A and 2B, the stronger S-shaped wave pattern of Type 2C starts closer to the crown and runs to the bottom of frizz-prone strands.
How to care for wavy hair
It is recommended to wash type 2 hair two to three times a week as it tends to become flat and greasy. A lightweight conditioner or mousse applied from mid-length to the ends is recommended, as most heavy haircare products can weigh this hair type down. A microfiber towel is ideal for gently squeezing out excess water post a hair wash. Alternatively, we recommend using the diffuser attachment of a hair dryer when drying type 2 hair. To prevent disruption of the natural waves, avoid overbrushing the hair.
Tira recommends: Wella Professionals Nutricurls Detangling Conditioner for Waves & Curls
Type 3: Curly hair
Type 3A – Classic curls
The pattern of Type 3A, with its loose S-shape curls, tends to have a spring to it. These curls are lightweight, easy to manage and not as defined as tight curls.
Type 3B – Spiral curls
A tighter curl pattern than 3A, there is a spiral shape to the curls of Type 3B that have a wider circumference, such as that of a marker pen.
Type 3C – Corkscrew curls
Similar to corkscrews, Type 3C curls are tight and spring freely. They are denser than 3B and, for reference, would be able to coil around a pencil with ease.
How to care for curly hair
For tresses in the type 3 category, choose a sulphate-free shampoo to retain the scalp’s natural oils. A deep conditioning mask once a week will keep your curls hydrated, and a leave-in conditioner, as prescribed by trichologists, will keep frizz at bay. Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle your hair, especially after a wash, and avoid heat styling with flat irons as much as possible.
Tira recommends: Wella Professionals Eimi Boost Bounce Curl Enhancing Mousse
Type 4: Coily hair
Type 4A – Slightly coiled
Still an S-shaped coil but tighter – this describes Type 4A best. This hair type belongs to the fine hair category that appears as smaller but more defined curls.
Type 4B – Kinky coils
In the zig-zag pattern, Type 4B has less defined curls than 4A as they form a Z-shape. They are tightly coiled and tend to be coarse in texture.
Type 4C – Super kinky coils
Finally, the tightest curl is that of Type 4C. There is no defined pattern and the strands are fragile, thus prone to breakage when combed.
How to care for coily hair
If you are gifted with the rarest kind – type 4 hair – co-washing is for you. Here, you replace shampoo with conditioner as it prevents hair from becoming dry and brittle. Any in-salon deep conditioning treatment is highly advised by hairstylists, who suggest tying them in a braid, twist or bun to make hair more manageable. Sleep on a silk pillow cover to prevent breakage of type 4 hair, and, after your hair wash, avoid towel-drying as it causes frizz and breakage.
Tira recommends: Wella Professionals Nutricurls Deep Treatment Mask for Waves & Curls