No hyperbole: glycolic acid is one of the best, most well-loved actives on a beauty shelf today. Dermatologists love it for its ability to brighten and refine the skin’s texture and tone. But, it is an active ingredient, so it’s best to do some homework before adding it to your routine. We sat down with the founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, Dr Madhuri Agarwal, to know more about this super ingredient.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is an AHA, or an alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs form a industrious class of skincare ingredients that prevents acne breakouts, bolsters collagen production, enhances blood flow, improves the appearance of fine lines and evens out the skin tone. Glycolic acid uses include working on the outermost surface layer of the skin by breaking down the bonds with skin cells so they can be easily swept away. They’re water-soluble (unlike salicylic acid, its oil-soluble cousin), so they don’t penetrate all the way down the deeper layers of the skin, confirms Dr Agarwal. In the case of acids, size really does matter. “Glycolic acid has a small molecular size that penetrates well to reveal better-looking skin on the surface,” she says.
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Where is glycolic acid found?
Glycolic acid is naturally present in beets, sugarcane and citrus fruits. But, the glycolic acid in your serum or toner is usually synthetic. This is more stable, making it safer and more efficient in skincare.
What are the glycolic acid uses for skin?
- The #1 reason this AHA is so popular is that it’s effective against acne and signs of ageing. Breakouts occur when pores are filled with dead skin cells, sebum and bacteria. Thanks to its ability to dissolve the glue, glycolic acid benefits your skin by can loosening and remove clog-inducing debris.
- The popular AHA also helps prep your skin to receive other skincare ingredients better. If you apply a moisturiser on dry, flaky skin, it just sits on top of the surface without penetrating deep enough to do its job. Exfoliated skin, where the dead skin cells and flakes are sloughed off, is better equipped to accept it. Thus, glycolic acid can also improve the efficacy of other skincare products you might apply on top because they improve cell turnover and push the newer, healthier skin cells that are ready and willing to accept all active ingredients to the surface.
- Thanks to its size and fast-acting abilities, glycolic acid can also help reduce fine lines and deeper wrinkles. That’s because it can penetrate into the deeper dermis, where collagen and elastin-producing cells live. It, therefore, works on fibroblasts to stimulate new collagen, which delivers more supple, bouncy, and brighter skin.
Who should use glycolic acid, and how?
Most people can tolerate glycolic acid, but it’s an especially great ingredient to add to your repertoire if you have acne, pigmentation issues, or fine lines. To avoid irritation, you’ll want to shelve Vitamin A derivatives like retinol and tretinoin when you’re using glycolic acid. They both speed up cell turnover, so combining them too close to each other will increase the risk of irritation and dryness.
Is glycolic acid a team player?
It plays well with Vitamin C if you’re looking to brighten your skin, but Dr Agarwal says it's important to space it out. She suggests you reach for Vitamin C in the morning and use a glycolic acid infusion at night to give your skin the time to reset in between. She suggests mixing and matching according to what your skincare goals are. If you want to boost collagen production, add Centella Asiatica and hyaluronic acid to the mix. To clear pigmentation, resveratrol, tranexamic acid and liquorice extract aid glycolic acid well.
Precautions to keep in mind while using glycolic acid
Formulas exist with a wide range of glycolic acid concentrations—from as low as five per cent to up to 20 per cent—so you can look for the strength best suited to your skin type.
A stronger concentration will work best if you have acne or super-pigmented skin. If you’re looking for simple maintenance, gentle exfoliation might work better. And, if you have super dry or sensitive skin, tread cautiously because acids may be drying or cause redness if the concentration is too strong.
Glycolic acid benefits for skin include clearer-looking skin which is more even-toned and brighter. With those results, it can be easy to be overzealous with your application, but that’s exactly what dermatologists don’t want you to do. Using too high a concentration or applying glycolic acid too often can break down the skin’s natural moisture barrier, which actually leaves skin feeling red, tingly, irritated and even more prone to acne than before, says Dr Agarwal. For best results, always follow up an acid with a hydrating ingredient like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, and then use a moisturising agent to seal it all in.
