It might take you a little while to wrap your tongue around ‘hyaluronic acid’, but the payoff for befriending this skincare active ingredient comes with an endless reserve of hydration beyond compare. Experts often describe its abilities in fortifying the skin’s hydration levels to a sponge that draws moisture from the air. Celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr Chytra V Anand shares an all-you-need-to-know guide to this miracle worker.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Think of hyaluronic acid as a gooey substance that lubricates the nerves, joints, hair, and skin. As a known humectant, it draws water molecules from the deeper layers of your skin and provides it to the epidermis. Its skincare superstar status is backed by its ability to fetch moisture from the air and retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, emerging as an ultra-hydrating active ingredient and practically the holy grail for dry and dehydrated skin.
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Where is hyaluronic acid found?
As a natural component, hyaluronic acid is readily available in our hair and skin. However, as we start ageing, our natural reserves start to deplete. This depletion can be further accelerated with our exposure to pollutants and environmental aggressors. This is why the skincare industry has begun producing a synthetic version that is usually available in serums in its most potent form.
The synthetic version available in most over-the-counter serums is produced via bio-fermentation wherein a safe bacterial strain is fermented. This is considered as the best practice, both ethically and commercially. Meanwhile, a non-vegan form of producing hyaluronic acid involves deriving this sugar molecule from the comb of a rooster’s head.
Why is the presence of hyaluronic acid in our skin important?
Since lack of moisture is one of the primary catalysts of premature signs of ageing, it comes as little surprise that hyaluronic acid is the darling of the anti-ageing aisle. One gram can hold up to six litres of water—making it a shoo-in for plumping wrinkles and fine lines. It has recently been used to add volume to lips and cheeks. Since its composition is similar to the natural component in our bodies, it negates the chances of any irritation.
Beyond keeping the skin hydrated, it is of significant help in speeding up the wound-healing process. This active ingredient can also offer relief from joint pain by maintaining the lubrication of the bones. Originally discovered by German biochemist Karl Meyer in 1934 as the viscous substance keeping the shape of cows’ eyes intact, it continues to be used today for mitigating dry eyes and discomfort.
Who needs hyaluronic acid?
As a universal active ingredient, hyaluronic acid is a team player that works well with all skin types. A bulletproof skincare routine would inevitably include hyaluronic acid serum as it is a versatile active ingredient that is suitable across all age groups and across various concerns, including compromised skin barriers, dehydration and dullness.
Based on your skin type, there could be varied signs that indicate your need for hyaluronic acid. Common signs to watch out for include dehydration, dullness, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. While you can tap into its eternal spring of moisture all year round, you will want to keep your vials of hyaluronic acid close when combating the harsh winds of winter as environmental humidity clocks in at an all-time low.
What's the best way to use it?
Oral consumption of hyaluronic acid is difficult, but it is extensively available over the counter for topical use. Hyaluronic acid’s incredible ability to replenish and retain moisture makes it perfect for topical application.
As part of your skincare routine, hyaluronic acid should be applied on clean, just-washed skin and sealed in with moisturiser for an additional boost of hydration. Notably, this acid is often engineered to a smaller molecular size to penetrate deeper into the dermis. Hence, this lighter ingredient must be followed with a heavier skincare product to act as a ‘lock’ that prevents water loss from the skin.
Who should avoid hyaluronic acid?
Despite the ‘acid’ in its moniker, hyaluronic acid is a safe ingredient for all skin types – it is extremely rare for anyone to be allergic to its presence. Everyone, including those with sensitive skin, can benefit from incorporating this active ingredient into their regimen.
This can also be layered with other active ingredients. You will also want to pay attention to the order of ingredients if you are using it in conjunction with other actives—for instance, hyaluronic acid is best layered over a topical vitamin C serum to strengthen the skin barrier. As a rule of thumb, you will want to avoid layering this acid with any active ingredient with a pH value below 4 or higher than 11. Also, if you have skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema, do a patch test to determine its compatibility with your skin to negate any inflammation concerns.
