If you have ever dealt with red, pus-filled acne and unwanted appearance of blackheads, you have likely had salicylic acid recommended to you in revered tones. Its legacy is not without merit — this anti-blemish hero has earned its stripes by being clinically proven to slough off dead skin cells, vacuum clogged pores and sop up excess oil. With just this one thing, you can have smoother, clearer skin with reduced whiteheads, blackheads and acne.
Sounds like a no brainer, doesn’t it? But before you add this skincare saviour to your routine, here’s what celebrity dermatologist and medical head of The Ageless Clinic, Dr Harshna Bijlani, wants you to know about salicylic acid:
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What is salicylic acid?
To understand the role that salicylic acid can play in your skincare regime, it is essential to brush up on your knowledge of acids first. At a scientific level, salicylic acid is an organic carboxylic acid that works on softening the skin’s surface and unclogging pores. The three main types of these acids that are used for the skin are alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and polyhydroxy acid (PHA). While AHAs are water-soluble and include glycolic and lactic acids, Salicylic acid falls under BHAs and is oil-soluble and therefore able to penetrate the skin deeper than AHAs.
Where is salicylic acid found?
Salicylic acid is a naturally occurring compound which can be isolated from the bark of the white willow tree. Salicylic acid and its derivatives are naturally found in vegetables and fruits, particularly berries. It can also be synthetically produced by biosynthesis of the amino acid phenylalanine or from phenol.
Why is salicylic acid important for skin?
Salicylic acid is an ideal ingredient for deep skin exfoliation, particularly for helping decrease the appearance of blackheads and whiteheads. Many medical-grade peels contain salicylic acid as it softens the outer layer of the skin and causes dead skin cells to shed more readily. Salicylic acid penetrates the skin at a deeper level and helps dislodge the attachments between cells in the outer layer of the skin. Since these attachments hold the skin together, dissolving the dead skin cells leads to unclogging pores and the appearance of clear, blemish-free, and grease-free skin.
Multiple studies predict that salicylic acid might soon outpace benzoyl peroxide to emerge as the go-to acne treatment. Its easy over-the-counter availability also gives it the upper hand over other prescription-only ingredients. The good news doesn’t end there — salicylic acid also makes for a trustworthy comrade-in-arms for treating dry, flaky scalps as well as acne on the body.
What is the best way to use salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a valuable active ingredient to add to your routine if you experience breakouts, oily skin, stubborn blackheads, whiteheads, or acne. it is a common active ingredient in topical acne creams, face washes, toners and spot acne treatment patches, with an average concentration of up to 2 per cent. Salicylic acid is best for targeted application, such as for the treatment of spots or blemishes. However, you want to be careful about how much you use, as salicylic acid can dry and irritate the skin when used in a higher concentration.
Who should avoid salicylic acid?
As with all acids, it helps to adopt moderation when introducing a new active to your skincare routine. As a rule of thumb, you will want to gradually phase it into your routine and pay special care to how your skin reacts after every application. People with dry and sensitive skin will want to skip this acid as it can dry the skin out. If overused, one may experience dryness, peeling, redness, and minor skin irritation. If that happens to be the case, look for products that contain ingredients like glycolic acid and lactic acid to help with your skincare concerns.
