As you get older, collagen production starts slowing down. After you hit the age of 25, the dermis of your skin produces one per cent less of the protein every year. This means that you’re expected to lose about 50 per cent of your collagen reserves by the age of 50. That is, unless you get involved in trying to slow the breakdown. Peptides—short chains of amino acids—are capable of doing just that. Here’s how.
What are peptides?
“Peptides in skincare are essentially short chains of amino acids, which is the smallest unit of a protein. These proteins, in the forms of elastin, keratin and collagen, are the building blocks that give the skin structure, resilience and strength. Essentially, these proteins hold your skin up,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, Mumbai-based celebrity cosmetic dermatologist.
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Where are peptides found?
Collagen comprises 70 per cent of the dry skin mass and creates the infrastructure for elastin and hyaluronic acid, both of which are responsible for the skin’s plumpness and hydration. As one ages, the the production of collagen diminishes, making the skin thinner, drier and less bouncy. There’s been a lot of hype surrounding topical collagen products, but new research proves that those molecules may be too big to successfully penetrate into the skin. Peptides, however, can stimulate and renew it, making it a more effective approach.
Consider peptides actives to be little messengers that run around sending messages to skin cells to enable them to communicate better. They work to interface with skin cells but don’t necessarily work the same way.
What are the different ways in which peptides for skin work?
1. Signal peptides can impact wound healing. “When they’re applied on the skin, they trigger mechanisms in the skin cells to activate fibroblasts in response to broken-down chains of elastin and collagen,” says Dr Sharad. The message sent to your skin cells is that something is wrong. The body then goes into repair mode and stimulates collagen production, leaving your skin plumper and more flexible.
2. Carrier peptides help deliver trace elements like copper and magnesium to the skin. These also stimulate collagen production.
3. Enzyme-inhibitor peptides are fast-acting ones that interfere with enzymes breaking down collagen and put the brakes on the activity. More research is being done on how they work, but certain rice-derived peptides have been shown to retain collagen, while soy-based ones improve cell turnover and reduce pigmentation.
4. Neuropeptides are found in neurons along with neurotransmitters. The research is still out on the ability of topical neuropeptides to block the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions and, therefore, wrinkles.
Who should avoid peptides?
Fortunately, anyone can use peptides because they are rarely known cause irritation and are one of the gentler anti-ageing ingredients out there. But, they are usually found in thicker, richer barrier-building creams. So, if you have super oily, acne-prone skin that is prone to congestion, look for lighter, serum-like or lotion-like formulations.
What’s the best way to use peptides?
Step one is to identify them. You’ll mostly find peptides in anti-ageing creams and serums (as compared to wash-off products like masks or cleansers) because they need to settle into the skin and penetrate well over time to get their work done. You’ll find peptide-rich products saying exactly that on their labels, but if not, the ingredient lists can have words like tripeptide and pentapeptide. Many formulas use a variety of peptides with different amino acid combinations that all work well together.
Once you know your peptide, layer it with other brightening and lifting ingredients like retinol. They might seem like they work similarly to build collagen, but the two aren’t interchangeable. Use a retinol-based product along with a peptide-rich one for best results. Dr Sharad recommends complementary ingredients like hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C to use along with peptides because they all work together to improve skin barrier repair.
