The scalp, sitting on the top of our heads, is probably the last thing on our mind when addressing our skin concerns. Some of us have even been washing our hair wrong all this while.
We must first overcome the common misconceptions around scalp care “Like, the scalp should be left alone…” laughs Dr Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist and founder at Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “Or that treating dandruff is the only form of scalp care we need. It’s also wrong to consider that exfoliation of the scalp daily helps with hair growth. And no, you don’t need to apply sunscreen on your scalp!”
So, what does it mean to take care of our scalp? Well, for one, it’s more than just having healthy hair. Its benefits extend to our skin, and deep diving into causes for scalp-related problems can also reveal hormonal imbalances that can be addressed for better health and well-being.
“While hair is always the main point of care and grooming, the scalp is the place of origin of hair health,” she elaborates. “A healthy scalp leads to healthy hair. Scalp care equals maintaining a healthy, clean scalp devoid of excess oil, irritation and infections. Scalp care should be an extension of your skincare routine.”
Getting to the root of scalp care
The skin on the scalp behaves very differently from that on the face. The scalp may be similar in structure to the skin, but it has entirely different needs and concerns. Not only is the cellular structure of the scalp different, there are also more than 1,00,000 hair follicles on it to consider.
The only time we wake up to scalp care, outside of being berated by our hairdressers, is when we struggle with dandruff or hair fall. While both are valid concerns, it’s the cause behind them that needs to be treated and not the symptoms. “Overtreating dandruff or mistaking dry skin for dandruff is a common mistake. At times scalp conditions like psoriasis, infections and seborrheic dermatitis are often mistaken for dandruff and wrongly treated at home with DIY treatments, leading to more complications,” warns Dr Agarwal. Instead, take your scalp issues seriously and visit your dermatologist to get to the root of the concern.
How much shampoo is too much shampoo
Curate a scalp care routine and follow it regularly. Consult your dermatologist to understand your needs and receive targeted scalp care tips. Some need to shampoo every alternate day, while some scalps are suited to shampooing two to four times a week. “Your scalp is exposed to pollution, weather and hormonal changes, and it needs regular shampooing,” says Dr Agarwal. She also busts the myth about changing shampoos regularly. “Hair loss is a multi-factorial concern and shampoo alone cannot treat it. In fact, changing your shampoo frequently will disturb the pH balance of the scalp and lead to irritability.”
As for dry shampoo – while it may be a quick fix, remember that it doesn’t work as a scalp care product. Think of it as makeup that needs to be washed off.
Watch how you wash
Your scalp is often neglected when you go in for a wash. We often tend to focus on our hair, applying product only on the strands and avoiding the scalp. This is where we’re going wrong. “Your scalp is like facial skin—it has oil and sweat glands and has a regular dead skin shedding cycle too,” says Dr Agarwal.
Before shampoo, opt for a deep conditioning scalp repair mask once a week. This scalp treatment is especially beneficial for coloured or chemically processed hair. Exfoliating masks once in two weeks also really help prevent product build-up and dandruff. “Use coconut or argan oil once a week on the scalp for hydration before shampooing. You can choose a monthly protein or hydrating spa treatment for the scalp (similar to your regular medi-facials),” says Dr Agarwal.
Your hair is what you eat
Scalp health is intrinsically linked to your diet and lifestyle. As per Dr Agarwal, “Antioxidants neutralise free radicals and provide a toxin-free environment for scalp skin cells.” When it comes to scalp care for hair growth, she also recommends iron, calcium, amino acids, magnesium, selenium, vitamins A, C, D, omega 3 and co-enzymes to maintain scalp pH and aid strengthening of follicles.
No stress, no mess
Our mental state has a direct effect on the scalp. Cortisol, the stress hormone, accelerates sebum production and lowers the skin barrier function making the scalp itchy and irritable. “Exercise is helpful in improving scalp health by reducing the stress hormone cortisol, and boosting scalp circulation and immunity. Sweat can add to the dead cell build-up and congestion, so it is advisable to shampoo regularly,” she adds.
Timing is everything
Normal fluctuations in weather can change hair your hair feels. Greasy in humid weather and dry in cold weather. The scalp also changes with age so it may be oily in your teenage years, but once you hit your mid-30s, it may start drying up. According to Dr. Agarwal, progesterone levels spike right before your period, making your scalp greasy and scaly. When estrogen drops, especially during menopause, the scalp becomes dry and irritable. “When there is an increase in androgens (male hormones), it can lead to hair loss, something that is commonly seen in the menopausal age group and in those with PCOS. Hypothyroidism can also lead to dry scalp and brittle hair by slowing down the metabolic activity,” she explains.
