The ones that deliver

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According to the dermat, not all viral ingredients are made equal, but several have the science to back up their popularity. For instance, tranexamic acid has gained traction for its ability to reduce hyperpigmentation. “It works by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and uneven skin tone,” Dr Sharad tells us. “It’s a safe topical ingredient to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.”

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Similarly, azelaic acid, which has seen a resurgence recently, is favoured for its versatility. “While it’s been around for a while, it’s now being recognised again for its ability to treat acne, rosacea and pigmentation without being too harsh on the skin. Plus, it’s safe during pregnancy,” she notes.

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For those with sensitive skin, Dr Sharad looks to Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). “PHAs are milder chemical exfoliants than AHAs and BHAs, making them safer to use for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin,” she says. “They remove the superficial dead skin layer, rendering the skin with an even tone and a brighter look, without penetrating too deeply. This reduces the risk of irritation.”

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Bakuchiol, often dubbed as a natural alternative to retinol, also gets Dr Sharad’s nod of approval. “Bakuchiol is derived from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It’s a potent antioxidant, reduces skin pigmentation and has a pronounced soothing effect on the skin,” she explains. “It’s particularly popular as a pregnancy-safe, plant-derived alternative to retinol.” ‍

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The ones that are slowly achieving mainstream status

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As skincare continues to evolve, some ingredients once considered niche are now gaining mainstream popularity. “Centella asiatica, or cica, is becoming a go-to ingredient for those with sensitive or compromised skin due to its soothing and healing properties,” Dr Sharad shares.

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Peptides, too, are making their mark. “Peptides, which are small amino acid sequences, naturally occur in the skin and stimulate collagen production while inhibiting melanin formation,” she explains. “They’re often used in skincare products to enhance penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.”

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Among the more hydrating ingredients, squalane stands out. “Squalane is a highly effective emollient that mimics the skin’s natural oils. It’s gaining traction for its ability to hydrate without clogging pores,” the expert says. ‍

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Clarifying common skincare misconceptions

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While these ingredients show promise, Dr Sharad also emphasises the importance of understanding what your skin truly needs. “You don’t need a 10-step routine for good skin,” she says. “Your skincare regimen has to be suitable for your skin type and concerns.” She also warns against the one-size-fits-all approach to active ingredients. “Active ingredients are not for everybody,” Dr Sharad cautions. “For instance, while vitamin C may work wonders for pigmentation, it may negatively impact and cause a flare-up in acne-prone skin.”

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When asked if there are any common misconceptions about certain trending ingredients, the Mumbai-based dermatologist brings up glutathione. “Glutathione works best when taken as an IV infusion. Oral supplements needn’t necessarily do the trick,” she clarifies. “That being said, glutathione is an antioxidant that helps flush out toxins and improves immunity and skin health. But it is not a skin-whitening agent in safe doses.” ‍

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Navigating the hype

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When it comes to newer trends like CBD in skincare, Dr Sharad advises caution. “There has been increasing attention towards cannabinoids in topical skincare, claiming to have anti-ageing properties and heal skin conditions like eczema, rosacea and psoriasis. But the fact is that there is a lack of clinical studies regarding the safety and efficacy of cannabinoids in skincare,” she says.

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Given the abundance of skincare products marketed on Instagram, it can be challenging to differentiate between genuine product efficacy and marketing hype. Dr Sharad’s advice is clear: “For genuine product efficacy, always trust your board-certified dermatologist. They will be able to recommend not only genuine products but also those which are required and suited for your skin type and concerns.” ‍

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The spotlight on natural ingredients

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Ingredients like snail mucin, matcha, squalane and propolis are currently enjoying their time in the spotlight—Dr Sharad breaks it all down for us.

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“Snail mucin acts as a humectant, helping the skin retain moisture and offering intense hydration. It also has dermal regenerative properties, which can improve signs of skin ageing.

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“Matcha contains polyphenols, which are known as free radical scavengers,” she continues. “Experimental formulations have shown that they provide prolonged moisturising effects and improve skin microrelief by reducing skin roughness.”

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Also touching on the origins of squalane, she tells us, “It derives its name from shark liver oil, which has large quantities of the molecule and is considered its most lavish source. It’s the main component of skin surface lipids and offers antioxidant and hydration properties.”

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Continuing with the theme, she brings up propolis, a lesser known yet potent ingredient. “Propolis is obtained from resinous substances collected by bees,” she says. “It contains various phenolic acids, flavonoids, minerals and vitamins. Recent studies have shown that propolis stimulates collagen, aids in reepithelisation, has protective actions against UV radiation and possesses antioxidant properties.”

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While these natural ingredients are garnering popularity, Dr Sharad shares that not all of these ingredients may be suitable for all skin types; and hence need to be used with due caution.

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In an age of Instagram and TikTok-driven beauty trends, it’s easy to lose sight of what your skincare goals are, really. However, as the expert reminds us, understanding what truly works—and for whom—requires more than just following the hype.